An, Bankstown, Saturday lunch John Newton visits a giant among Vietnamese soup restaurants.

Bankstown is famous for two things: former prime minister Paul Keating (born there) and the best pho this side of Ho Chi Minh City. …And he confirms for me my suspicion that there is more to this bowl of noodles than meets the eye and belly.

"Soup is a large part of Vietnamese culinary culture," he says, "especially pho. For a Vietnamese not to have a bowl of pho once a week, something is terribly wrong. It is a folk food."

o this is more than a meal, it's a roots-renewal ritual. Having learnt to pho at An, I can relate to that. 29/31 Greenfield Parade, Bankstown, 9796 7826. Daily 7am-9pm.

Out of ten
Atmosphere 6/10
Functional. We're talking noodles. When the noodles go, so do you.
Service 7/10
Almost more waiters than eaters: slick, fast and impersonal.
Food 9/10  


An Restaurant invites all Sydney food writers to come and experience the pho that has had numerous leading critics singing its praises.  When you add An Restaurant's low prices and efficient, friendly service into the mix the result is a happy customer and a glowing review for the restaurant.  Read them here