Establishment
Editorial
Bold by nature and bold by design, it's hard not to be impressed by the 42-metre long marble bar. An abundance of cast iron columns only adds to the, ahem, virility of the place. Yes, the Romans would have been happy here. Modern day Sydneysiders are happy here too. Not only is there much too look at (and I'm not just talking about the décor), the cocktails are expertly executed. Be prepared to pay a couple of dollars more for your tipples but you won't be disappointed.
If you're watching those purse strings, although I doubt many Establishment punters are, stick to the wine list. It's a well-rounded offering and most Australian wines are reasonably priced.
If the action at the bar becomes too much, head out to the Garden Bar. Try to experience it before the sun sets and bathe in the light of the gorgeous glazed atrium. Alternately this is a great spot for lunch. An eclectic food menu gives you a choice of Thai or Australian fare. Try the Crispy Fish Salad with green mango dressing ($14) or if feeling more traditional go the bacon, mushroom and capsicum quiche ($15.50).
A word of warning: if heading there of a Friday evening be prepared for suits 'en masse'.
Rachel Cook, March 2010
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