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Atlantis Seafood Restaurant

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

It's a tad austere at first glance: a vast, carpeted space adjoining the lobby of Somerset Serviced Apartments. A black-suited waiter sweeps you into the dining room, or to the eucalypt-flanked alfresco terrace, and you're surrounded by small, calm groups of business-types, middle-aged couples and something that sounds suspiciously like muzak. Yet a feeling of familiarity and a sense of comfort takes over and you realise Atlantis is something of a throwback, harking back to a time when suburban seafood restaurants were neither uncomfortably formal or overly laidback. You are looked after here, and the staff really seem sincere.

The food style may feel a little dated to some, too. Atlantis isn't cheap, and the food - while it all looks rather fantastic - isn't quite as fanciful as one might expect. But Opel Khan's cooking confidently walks that middle ground, and occasionally rises above it. He favours Mediterranean flavours, with occasional nods to Asia in the lovely scampi and bug spring rolls, and the snapper fillet laksa with rice noodles, Vietnamese mint and snow peas. The entree of garlic king prawns consists of enormous crustaceans in a rich, salty tomato and basil sauce, topped with tapenade twists, while the beef fillet steak uses good, extra-thick cuts of Angus beef. The dessert platter is a treat and the homemade sorbets are divine.

 

Fiona Davies, March 2006