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Rambutan

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

The narrow, unassuming frontage belies what’s inside; Rambutan’s atmospheric interior is something to behold. City meets Thai garden in the cosy dining room, dominated by a communal table and open-plan kitchen. Downstairs in the grotto-like cocktail bar; mirrors, corners and Missoni-influenced prints create a flirtatious space. The result is effortlessly cool, contemporary and relaxed. Rambutan has been open only three months, yet on a Saturday night the place is full and buzzing with energy on the floor and in the kitchen. Chef Mai Busayarat, previously of Chinadoll, prepares Southern Thai cuisine with a modern touch and an eye to presentation. Happily for us, the owners also run a providore business so enjoy the fresh and sometimes rare produce on offer. Let the enigmatic staff guide you through the ordering process as the menu is designed for sharing – a selection of entrees plus a main could be an ample meal for two.

If you like san choy bau then order the lab kai, a fresh and piquant Thai version using chicken mince, mint, lemongrass and chilli. Chopped liver adds some richness to the perfect discs of crisp iceberg lettuce. The tender tea-smoked quail is a menu highlight, accompanied by slow-roasted garlic cloves and a warming black pepper sauce. Of course, rambutans (similar to lychees) are always to be found on the menu, perhaps sweetening the crispy skin tamarind duck, or adding some exoticism to the striking cocktail menu designed by mixologist, Jason Crawley. The baked apple and wild nettle martini is lightly smoky with a lovely depth, while the signature ginger pina colada arrives in a most eye-catching manner – served in a coconut and set alight! If the service levels stay up and the pretension down, Rambutan can make itself comfortable in the niche it’s carved out for itself.

Sarah Theeboom, January 2008